the adventures in Guatemala

Few hours after we crossed the Guatemalan border we arrived by the Peten lake. Around it are situated lots of small towns and villages, but hour goal was Flores - little island in the middle of the lake with size 500 by 500 meters. It is connected to the coastal town Santa Elena via dike and little bridge. Most of the shops and banks are in Santa Elena. Before we cross the bridge, our bus stopped in the village, next to an ATM and invited us to withdraw cash with the pretext, that most of the time, the ATMs in Flores are out of order. I decided to skip that part for now, but at least half of the bus went to get money. When everybody was back in the bus came a guy who was selling excursions to Tikal for 30 dollars. Let them get the cash, then take out of them. Easy! Suzuki was elder japan in his 70s, passenger in our bus. He booked that trip. The story of Suzuki was kind of sad. Together with his wife, they gave a promise to visit 100 countries. But his wife passed away on number 60. The man took the decision to go on. Right now he was on number 80. He was sleeping in hostels between young people and I can bet he was having fun. His english wasn't good, but was enough to survive around. Some people left their names on his shoes, written with pen.

sunset above lake Peten

We entered in Flores and the bus dropped us exactly in front of the hotel, where we had reservation. We were accommodated in a room with sliding doors with entrance towards the stairs. Everybody going up or down, was passing by here. We throw the backpacks and went out to check out this little island. Paved streets, every building was hotel, restaurant, bar, shop or tourist agent. It was full with hippies, jugglers, ukulele players and all kind of nomads. We arrived during some festival. Town celebration or just another reason everybody to get drunk. All together.

We ended up next to few stalls, where there was food for sell. The locals were making crowd around, so we decided that must be good. Takos with russian salad, spagetti (with potatoes), chicken, pork, avocado and more. 3 pieces for 5 quetzals. (1 euro was 8 quetzals in this moment). The food wasn't bad, even some combinations seemed weird to me.

We met dutch couple, who was traveling in the same bus with us and we started a chat. Marco was around 40 years, long hair, small and squashed nose. His mother was from Indonesia. Niki was 180 cm tall, tipical dutch woman. We had a long talk and finally we decided to go together to Tikal.

Helen and me, we were tired after the long journey and we went back home to sleep. The hotel was super noisy. You can't imagine! From our room we were able to hear every whisper in the hall, from the reception and even the kitchen, which was just downstairs and didn't have ceiling. But that was as good night tale. The garden on the back of the hotel had two trees and some haunted and desolated building. The ghosts were having the shape of birds. Hundreds of birds. Or even thousands of birds. Little black grackles. Few colonies of those freaking animals were living here and on the surrounding roofs and every morning around 5 am they would start to croak. All of them, together. Freaking hell. Have you seen Hitchcock's "the Birds"? Well I was living in it for a while. How irresponsible is that those little freaks can't do something more constructive that early in the morning.

Sleeping after 5 was nearly impossible and only for hard core sleepers.
The locals who live around had the remedy. They just didn't got out of bed before the morning concert. 6 am was the time when local somnambulists were wandering around the streets, beating the hell out of the drums, they carry with, screaming and thundering with all they had available. One morning I went to have a look. Sleeping wasn't possible anyway. They were dressed with carnival clothes and probably was something with the town celebration. Bottle of rum and ear plugs must be the best way to sleep in Flores.

Next day we went down to Santa Elena. To change money, to see the town and buy some fresh fruits. It is nothing special, two main streets with banks, offices, restaurants. Every corner had its own grill, where chicken and roasted pork meet was sold with rise or beans.

We needed to check few banks, as not all of them wanted to change money. In front of each bank was security guy with rifle that can put elephant down, bullet proof vests. Those guys could be see also around petrol stations and some shops. Everybody can buy a gun in Guatemala. All you need is money. Walk in, pay, walk out. It seems some bloody stories happened in the past, and maybe still happens sometimes. Better protect your values. There wasn't much of police on the street, unless you are around more touristic area. Here you may encounter special police, just to protect tourists from Guatemalans. Lovely!

We walk into the market too. It was ok, but we walked more in and it started to get kind of dodgy in there. I didn't feel safe in one moment and we walked out. Carrying DSLR camera around your shoulder may provoke unnecessary action from some individuals. Especially when they known that they know area better than you. We did whatever we needed to do and went back in Flores, where we met Nikki and Marco for beer, while watching the sunset above the soft waters of the lake. We also arranged our trip to Tikal

The Flores festival was including lots of fireworks. And noise. People were out on the street, singing and dancing.
We went up to the main square, where is also the church. We got more beer and while wandering around, the people started to run away from something. The crowd was coming towards us, and behind them was coming walking firework. Wooden triangle frame in a shape of house roof, covered with cartoon. On the front part was made bull head. Also from carton. The frame itself was belted with fireworks, connected and shooting one after each other. Guy was keeping that technical innovation above himself and was walking with it. The madness went on for few minutes. I needed some time to realize what is happening before I took out my phone and start shooting with it. By coincidence we were talking about peyote, aiuazka and LSD with Marco when this began. We both agreed laughing, that you don't need LSD on such a feria. But the insanity didn't finish yet. From the little street behind the church came 3 heroes, keeping on their shoulders something that looked like Christmas tree. It may count for Christmas tree from more adventurous people. Or some vodka boosted hipsters. That was another wooden frame, fully equipped with fireworks. Few more people came to help the 3 guys to attach it steady next to some poll and they lighted up the wick. Another few minutes of madness. I needed to keep my hand somewhere in front of my eyes, to protect them. I was close enough and that thing was shooting fireworks in all directions.

Little bit more down was the basketball field. 50 meters after it was built little stage. After the fireworks party everybody went that way. On the stage came the Guatemalan Skatalities, as Marco called them. Few people were dancing next to the stage which was a bit left of us. Some were just watching and listening from the side. We were sitting on the benches, and down on the field kids were playing. A little guy showed up and started to dance. With himself. He was 1.40 tall, making crosses with his hand, kissing his beer and then sending air kisses and thankful gestures towards the sky. I can assume only, that he was thanking the Lord for the beer that night. Or maybe not only that. Or he was a hobo, or he slept drunk in the park since the beginning of the festival. He saw me looking at him and with gesture invited me to dance with him. I wasn't in the mood of dancing with drunken bums and passed. He invited then Marco...he was inviting only men.
The kids which were running on the field were playing with balls, with balloons all kind of chinese lightening things and toys...no one was sitting somewhere with smartphone or tablet. Rare to see nowadays.

Next morning we got up early. To wake up wasn't a problem. At all! We had the grackles, which started the alarm at 5 am sharp. It was suppose to be a great day. At 8 am minibus was waiting for us in front of the door, which brought us to Tikal. I mentioned that name already few times. This is old Maya complex deep in the jungle. It has been inhabited since 10 century BC, but the constructions and the oldest pyramids are dating since 2 century BC.
There are few temples, the tallest of which is 70 meters. It's name is temple number 4. Very creative I think Wooden stairs were leading to the base of the last level. We went up and the view...the view left us breathlessness. Everywhere where I could see was the top of the trees. Somewhere there, between the trees were popping out the tops of another 3 temples. Wherever I look, I could only see jungle. We were watching and woooooooooowing. It was so quiet up there. No cars, no horns, no pollution neither ugly flats...jungle, silence, clouds and eventually some bird. It would land on some of the stairs and would look at us. As intrusive guest, waiting for us to go back.

From the last level which we could reach was soaring the top of the temple. Parallelepiped with the small part towards the sky. Inside was little room, with metal net on the entrance. Probably the chief or the shaman was living there. Or having a brake between all the heart rips off. I tough I maybe seen too many photos and movies (you remember Apocalipto) but no! That was very real. Hundreds or thousands of people have been killed daily in those beautiful times. In war, they didn't like to kill the enemy. They would take them as prisoners, so they have people to kill later. In some celebrations or rituals up to hundreds of thousands sacrifices were done. Literally! Day after day, during weeks, hearts were giving their last beat out of the chest. Shamans were killing in shifts. The body and the head rolled down the stairs, and the arms and legs were cut off, boiled and eaten. I am not saying this because I watch too many movies. Horror was daily life back then. Well, in Maya's life style, so much blood was as spring rain. By the way another picture is brightening my gentle mind. Some radically inventive maya members, would remove the skin of a victim and would get inside. The Milano's new trend! No, nobody in Tikal or Guatemala told me that stories! I read it recently in a book about Cortez invasion of Mexico. It was written by one of his brothers in arm, soldier, who fought with in Cortez and helped him to invade the capital of Mexico back in 1520 (ish). Apparently he also survived.
But back to Tical. I didn't no count the total amount of Temples, but they were more than five. The Jaguar Tower was 55 meters high, the others were a bit less. There was one even higher, only little piece of the top was uncovered, all the rest was conquered by jungle. Archaeologists were working on it.
Around the temples were lots of buildings, which were used as living areas. According the bus driver 200 000 people used to live here. According Wikipedia, a lot less. I do think that the driver was exaggerating, but he didn't know that people can't impress me. I was very impressed with the pyramidal temples, tough! But you can choose to whom you can trust. I will not argue about it. In the park we met few toucans (I saw those birds for a first time in my life), peacocks, humming birds and some little fluffy things we already met in Tulum in Mexico. Here they were called pisote.

Around 15 o'clock we walked out the park exhausted, to be returned to Flores.
The madness with the fireworks repeated again. This time the "donkey" man walked twice while shooting fireworks out of his little house. I had the honor to meet that guy in person half hour before he light the wick. We were eating burritos at one of the stands, when this guy came to eat too. I didn't know who he is, I even don't remember how we started the chat. But it turned out that he will carry the fire thingy on his back in a bit. He did it already few years and he was lucky enough to just burn himself only a bit. "The city hall is paying me very well, otherwise I wouldn't do it. I am not that crazy" he said to us. I believe him. In the other hand, they are plenty of people who are crazy enough to do that for no money. Well there are people crazy enough to launch even missiles for no money. But that would be completely another story.

On the next day we spent 9 hours in the bus. Nikki and Marco decided to join us on our trip for few days. Lanquine is small village, somewhere in the mountains of Guatemala. We were dropped off in the center of the village, where pick up truck was waiting for us. We jumped on the back and we took a dirt mountain, half vertical paths (initially I wrote road, but that can offend some actual roads). The driver needed to avoid holes as vulcan craters and being careful not to slip off the road. To me, those were 40 minutes of excitement, trying not to eat all the flies passing by. We arrived in a bungalow park, next to Cahabon river. Few little pieces of land were used for agricultural purposes. All the rest was jungle. There wasn't electricity over here. They had power generator, which was shut off at 10 pm every evening. We were smashed after the whole day in the bus, all those little details didn't really matter. We eat, whatever we brought with us and we took horizontal position in the beds.
There wasn't food on board, the place offered overpriced baked eggs and burgers. We ate the last of the food we have brought with us and took off. We went first down the river and walked up the stream, to reach cave full with bats. Few young guys were offering guiding in it, but no one of us was actually interested. Cave, bats, dark, wet...I saw a cave in Cuba and that was enough for the next 3 months for me. We kept walking to reach beautiful waterfall. The river was reaching a rock, shaped as horse shoe and maybe 7-8 meters high. From here, the water was falling down from the right side of the carve, making so much noise, that I needed to scream if I want to be heart. On the left side, the water wasn't falling but coming up. Yes, it was coming out somewhere underground. There was a tunnel, where the river was going in, few hundred meters up. Apparently the tunnel wasn't big enough and the water which doesn't fit was going up, the rest, we could see it coming out on that side. We took some photos, as any other would do and we kept walking towards Semuc Champey - natural park, with little pools in the river. The access to the park was from the other side of the river, so we needed to walk back down, where the bridge was. When we reached the bridge, few kids came running to us, offering chocolate, hand made from their mommy's. After the kids came the fathers, also running. In their hands they had little cooling boxes with cold beer and soda. They ran, because the first one to come, was the first one to sell. And they were galloping!!! They all spoke english. I mean, they all were able to offer their goods in english. The rest of the conversations were hold in Spanish. By the way, Spanish was second language in this area. The mother tongue was quiche maya as they called it. Or whatever is left of the Mayas. In Guatemala are spoken 20 dialects of Mayan.

the river, the waterfall and the forest...

We didn't spend much time here and we go on, to cross the bridge and enter the park. Here we started half hour climbing, which was nearly vertical sometimes. Little man made paths were leading us through wild jungle. Tropical trees, lianаs, cacao trees and somewhere there black howling monkey (it looked like howling, I have no idea, as I never seen howling monkey before) The ground around was covered with monkey poo (again I guess it was monkey poo) We could hear them up there, jumping from branch to branch, some leaves fell next to us, but didn't see anymore monkey. Somewhere live the symbol of Guatemala - the quetzal. Probably beautiful and colorful bird, which I never saw in my live (yet) The money of Guatemala are named after that bird, and that made me even more curious.

The climb was difficult and I was swearing on every step I made. On the most difficult parts were rope to pull yourself. Some wooden steps were also integrated in the trail. Here and there we met touristic police. Those guys were paid from the government, to protect tourists from guatemalans. Guatemala and the countries around are well known for crimes. Robbery is the most common. Thinking of the poor people running with beer and chocolate to sell. They all had old, tear in places clothes, the kids were bare feet, I notice most guatemalans don't have smartphones. Well, they don't have any phones. Living in the mountains, without electricity, working hard to get your daily portion of rice and veggies. Then imagine tourist, wearing big black Nikon on his neck, or the newest Iphone in his hand. I can understand if some people can't resist on the provocation and would like to check how many dollars some foreigners are bringing in their pockets.
Finally we arrived up, where little area was shaped in square and covered with wooden planks. The view point towards the pools. Light blue, lakes, filled with transparent water from the river. Little turquoise blue clouds in the green forest, left there from invisible giant. The people swimming in it were having the size of an ant from up here.

view towards the pools from the mirador up in the forest

Going down took less time, because we didn't stop to take a brake. We didn't walk faster, because that can lead to unpleasant accident. Rolling downhill in the jungle is not healthy. Once I put my feet on the beach I threw my t-shirt and I jumped in the water. The temperature was 20ish Celsius. Somewhere, under us was streaming that part of the river, which was coming out the ground few hundreds meters down, where the waterfall was. The rest of the water was filling up those natural formed swimming pools, while slowly slipping thrоugh them. All the little lakes were formed on different level, each one higher with few meters from the other one. Huge stairs, where giant velican left his steps, after he walked while the rock concrete was still wet. Little waterfalls were connecting each pool, some of them were like slide in the rock. Helen slid down few times, but I skipped on that. Didn't want to bruise my ass and was happy enough just to float in the soft water. I had swimming googles and i put them on. Two local kids saw it and came to me. I was the king of Samuc Campey, because of the googles. I let one of the kids using it. He forgot to give opportunity to the other one to see the underwater world, so I needed to interfere here and take the googles from one, so I can give it to the other kid. I think I made their day more bright. Thinking now, probably I should have leave the googles behind.

the pools

There was a restaurant and a hostel, about 2 km up the road to Lankin. For a change we decided to go there for dinner. The walk wasn't easy even for cars as the slope was 45 degrees sometimes It took us some time to get there, just before it got dark. Electicity here was available - the cable was going another 500 mtrs down the road. The beds were as well cheaper and we decided to move here tomorrow. We ate, we made reservation and it was time to go back down. Tomas, the owner, told us to walk all together, not to split for any reasons and to be very careful. It is dangerous out there. Marco pulled out his backpack a pocket knife and put it in his pocket. I never wear such a things on me. I only had my flash light.
Helen and Nikki were already worried, and Tomas warning didn't make it easier. The Moon was full so, it was relatively bright, we could see the way, it was mostly downhill and I was expecting that if we walk quick we will be back in 20 minutes.

We were walking all together, the girls were not talkative at all, and me and Marco were trying to keep up the mood, talking bullshits, just to keep the minds away of the scary situation. Well, nothing was scary, but the words from Tomas made our minds to go in that direction. When the seed of fear is ingested in someone head, it will grow. Helen was keeping me so hard, that I got bruises next day.

A dog started to bark next to the road. If you ever wandered how long is a nanosecond, we measured it. That was the time we ended up on the other side of the road, and Helen nearly over me.
Talks about rapes, murders and robberies took over the quietness and this wasn't going well. Two head lights came from down the road. A car stopped next to us and asked which way we go. We told him and he said It is not very close. Stay together and be very careful. It is dangerous, I saw people down the road to smoke weed.
That was over the top. The girls were already in panic.They wanted to walk back to Zapote (the name of the restaurant we were) and to wait for a car which can give us a lift. We walked back and I was just thinking, that if there is a gangster on the road to smoke weed, he wouldn't bother us. The weed brings people to friendships and peace. Now, if one drinks tequila or rum, it is different story.

Helen was walking like she got few redbulls and she really got wings. We barely could follow her uphill. The car was parked in front of the place and the driver was talking to Tomas. We went there, explained that nearly we shitted in our pants and we asked him to give us lift down there. We paid him 10 quetzals per person and he was happy, we also. 7 quetzals were 1 euro in that time.

He had Toyota Hilux, the girls went in the cabin, me and Marco decided to enjoy the fresh air from the back.
Somewhere down the road were parked 2 motorbikes and 3 guys next to them were talking. I don't know if they drank or smoked. I will only assume, that Tomas and the driver had their reasons to warn us.

After breakfast on the next day was time to move to Zapote for the coming night. The only transport here were those pick up cars. They move people up to Lankin and down for 10-20 quetzals.

We left Nikki with the bags, because she had knee pain and the rest of us started to walk up. She will take the bags and wont walk much. Win win. In 10-15 minutes we saw her smiling and waving to us from the back of one of the pick up cars. We registered and went for a trek. Marco had some already some idea of the map on his phone end we walked in the jungle. We met few americans with tubes from car tires in hands. They were walking up the stream of Cahabon, planning to drift down the current on the tube. Secretly I was envy.

One of the americans helped us with directions. In a while we approached a bridge. It was hanging on 6 rusty metal ropes, 7-8 cm thick each. 4 of the ropes were keeping the walking planks, the other two were as handrails on the side.

river crossing

We weren't sure how strong the cables are, the planks were rotten, everything was covered with rust. It was wiser if we walk one by one. The bridge was swinging, has to be real adventure to cross the river when it is windy.

cacao nut

We went down the river, the path was going through the jungle, next to the water. Here and there we met indigenous people. Washing clothes, fishing or just chilling. Small cabins were outstanding the jungle as mushrooms on green field. No electricity, no water in the huts, only trees around. I noticed some of the people have mobile phones. Probably they charge them when they go in the town.
Shower, laundry, thirst...there is the river. If you want to cook - there is dry wood behind the hut, lighten up the fire.

again the river

We arrived at little bay, where man in his 30s was washing empty glass bottles in the water. He was white, with boardshorts, beard and he didn't fit at all in what I have seen till now. We started a chat and it turned out, that here will come self sustainable retreat. He was volunteering for food and bed. The future project had solar panels and water filtration. The fridge, the oven, everything was brought by hand, 2 km away where the road finished and start the pathways. The wood,, used to build the cabins was brought with rafts on the river. There was not 5 square meters of flat land. Everything was hills, where corn, tomatoes and other plants were growing happy.

and this is the self sustainable retreat in the jungle

Everything needed was cultivated, the land was rich on soil and the weather was like eternal spring. We met in the retreat two more americans, who invited us to have a look around. A lot of work was still needed, but some of the huts were already finished. They even had a booking, but before the arrival of the guest the sky went wild open, rain was poring as hell, the water pulled the mud from the top of the hill and all together entered the only ready cabin. They had one day only to clean it up and make it ready for their first client.

the river going through the jungle

in such a houses the maya descendants were living

making friends

old guy bringing wood for the fire (I guess)

Pick up car for Lankine was waiting for us next day at 5 AM. From Lankine we were planning to take the bus to Antigua.
While getting dressed I found tick on my leg. The little bastard wasn't very big yet, but made me nervous. All kind of weird diseases are easy to catch in Guatemala.

No one of us removed tick before. But Marco and Nikki seemed to have idea. It was still dark, so Marco put the light on his phone and Nikki tried to pull it out with the pincers. She squeezed more than enough and the belly of the tick exploded, leaving spot of thin blood around.I was double worried, because when a tick broke, he vomit (kind of) and infected blood goes in the body.I am translating the text 10 months later. I had itches for 2 months maybe, when I got sick in Panama (fever and headache, not related to the tick) and went to the doctor. I said about the tick too and I got antibiotics too. The itchiness disappeared after the antibiotics.
We didn't have accommodation when arriving in Antigua. Upon arrival, few jackals were offering us rooms. Marco started chat with one of them. He had 2 rooms. We went to have a look. THe house was a bit out of the center, the room which he offered was super dirty, walls with spots, rotten ceiling, everywhere moss. It had bathroom, but the pipes were ripped off. So no shower, just a toilet.
THe other room he offered was his own room. He wanted to take out his shit and to offer it to us. When he was planning to sleep I don't know. Nikki and Marco were not delighted at all and decided to search something else. We were not delighted too, but it was cheap enough and we decided to deal with the situation for one night. The next day we were going on anyways. We asked them to clean it up, we left the bags and went to see the town. When we came back, the only thing they changed was that they put clean sheets on the bed.
Antigua is beautiful town, it used to be the capital of Guatemala. During two centuries the army of the Spaniards and their administration were settled here. On every corner were ancient churches and colonial buildings. Big part of them were museums nowadays. Antigua has been shaken few times from earthquakes, many of the old colonial buildings were destroyed.

wedding limo in Antigua

photos above are from Antigua

the locla transportation - so called Chicken buses

We entered San Francisco church. Impressive building. The construction started in the beginning of 17th century, but earthquake demolished it and they started over. It has been finished in 1702. Since 1990 the relics of San Pedro de Betancure are laying here. I don't know him in person, even in not person. I didn't have a clue who is this guy, the only reason I got interested to him and the church is because he came all the way from Tenerif, Canary islands. Many people come in Antigua to climb Acatenango vulcan where you may enjoy the view towards Fuego - another vulcan, which is active. The nigh view towards it must be very impressive. Orange and red flames coming out of the huge mountain mouth, on the dark night background. Marco and Nikki went to climb it and later, when we meet again, they told us that it was super difficult. The climb takes two days, it is nearly vertical climb, it is cold, everybody has backpack witth 10 kilo of camping material - tent, sleeping bag, food, water etc..But it pays off. I never been keen to such a mountain adventures, so we didn't go. I kind of regret it, only because of seeing this colorful night picture. Few weeks before our arrival, group of 6 (maybe 4 but is more interesting if I exaggerate the numbers) dutch tourists dyed up there. Unlucky enough to be there in bad weather, their tents were blown away down the slope. Everything could be more happy finishing if they were not in tents sleeping in that moment.

Panajachel is small village on lake Atitlan. The deepest lake in Central America (340 meters) and it is 1500 meters above see level in the mountains Sierra Madre. We reserved bungalow for two nights and we were full with expectations for beautiful sunsets, and quiet evening. Probably the sunset was beautiful few times in the year, in rare moments when the sky wasn't covered with clouds. And the village was quiet many years ago, before all the tourist arrive. We wandered in the town, made a walk on the beach and we decided that we seen it all. There are few more villages around the waterfront the easiest access is with boat from Panajachel. THere is view to San Pedro from Panajachel. If you go to San Pedro you will notice that the view changes - then you will see Panajachel from the beach.

We came back in Antigua for another night, to make connection with El Salvador. This time we found another room. It was little guest house, where senor DickHead was living next door. Long term rental. He was selling tickets for one of the buses to El Salvador. I didn't have enough quetzals on me and I told him that I will go later to change and will pay him when I am back.He promised to reserve two tickets. The banks didn't want to change 50 dollars, only 100. I didn't need so much, and after I walked in 33 banks I accepted to change 100 and have extra. The ATM's in Antigua were not trustful. We came back around 18 o'clock. Senor DickHead didn't reserved us places because he was afraid we wont pay him. Well, that's ok plenty of companies driving to El Tunco. Giving blessings and love to the Senor I walked back in town to search for another transport company. All the buses were full for the next day! Good I changed 100 dollars, because we needed to stay one more night in Antigua and we needed more cash than planned.
The same night senor DickHead got drunk and started to sing, making noise and troubles. This is a guest house, we were not the only guests, the house keeper was living also on the site. The attitude of the Senor wasn't very well accepted. The house keeping lady tried to kick him out, but he refused to go. Real show was hold that evening. Police arrived as well. Finally he left.
I saw him sneaking back in on the next day. The house keeper came and asked us to talk on the phone with the owner (as we spoke Spanish) and tell him that this person should not stay in tourist place like that.
The guy went to the house keeper, giving his apologies for the trouble, then he apologized to us too. The next night he was still there, I don't know what happened further.
We used the extra day to see more from Antigua. Not that it is so much to see. There is some hill with crosses on the top - short climb on walking distance from town. Many tourists complained on internet that they got robbed over there. We didn't need such experience and we kept it safe. Walked in the town, checked one of the museums. Somewhere around here people dig nephritis and they use it to make necklaces, statues and other jewelry. Rich ancestors had the habit to implant it in their teeth

little nephritis men

nephritis tooth implants

i think the sign says it all

Guatemala, the land of eternal spring, beautiful, green, with rivers, mountains, waterfalls, huge jungles and filled up with life and vivid. And streets dominated by violence.
In one comedor (place to eat) in Antigua we saw the local newspaper. Murders, car accidents and more violence. Beautiful! In the bus to Panajachel we traveled with american - father is guatemalan, but he lives in US. He came to study medicine in Guatemala city. Here is almost for free. In US you have to sell one of your kidneys to study or for every year study, you need to work 2 years to pay it off. In the university hospital they had average 5 persons a day with a gunshot wound. And the statistic is on the people who came in the hospital still alive. The death ones, go in the morgue and don't count.
In the other hand, the thieves were very nice in Guatemala city. When they robe you on the street and they want to take your phone, if you ask them, they will give you back the SIM card. If they have time for taking it out of course.

All the women in Guatemala look the same. Checked skirt till the ankles, bra and shirt above it, on top is lacework vest. In some mountain villages the vest was replaced with checked shirt. The fashion of the vest didn't reach all the areas yet. All of them wear long black hair and the faces were flattened. I swear, I couldn't recognize which one is which. The men probably make signs on the foreheads or somewhere else to recognize their own wives. Other wise they take the chance to bring home the wife of the neighbor or somebody else. And that one wont notice, because he will bring home another woman, which just looks like his.
The men, if they don't have money for gun, they would wear machete on their waist. Which can explain part of the violence.
We saw very little part of Guatemala. We spent 12 days and person can easy spend 2 months in this country. For us was time to go. Next stop is El Tunco in El Salvador!